Before the steel, there was the gambeson. This quilted, padded coat was one of the most common pieces of armour in medieval Europe, worn on its own by many soldiers and under mail or plate by knights. Here's what it was, what the different names mean, and how people wear gambeson-style coats today.
In short
- A gambeson is a coat made of layers of fabric quilted together.
- It was armour on its own, and padding under heavier armour.
- Aketon and arming doublet are close relatives with slightly different jobs.
- Today, gambeson-style coats are popular for knight, guard and soldier costumes.
What a gambeson was
A gambeson was made from many layers of linen or wool, sometimes with stuffing, stitched through in lines so the padding couldn't shift. The quilting gave it its typical ridged look. Thick fabric is surprisingly good at stopping cuts and absorbing blows, and a gambeson was far cheaper than metal, so foot soldiers and archers often wore one as their main armour. Knights wore padded garments under their mail and plate, to cushion blows and stop the metal from rubbing.
Gambeson, aketon or arming doublet?
- Gambeson: the general word for a padded, quilted coat, often worn as the outer layer.
- Aketon: usually the padded layer worn under mail.
- Arming doublet: a later, more fitted padded jacket with ties for attaching plate armour.
Medieval writers didn't always use these words consistently, and historians still discuss the details.
Our gambeson-style coat
The Quilted Padded Coat is cut long in the style of a gambeson, with a stand collar and a single-breasted front. It's 80% cotton and made for faires, LARP and medieval outfits. Sizes run from S to XXL (chest 121 to 141 cm), and it's about 94 to 102 cm long.
How to wear it
- Soldier or guard: belted at the waist over trousers and boots, with a pair of bracers.
- Knight: under the Double-Layer Half Breastplate, with shoulder armour and a Great Helm carried under the arm.
- Squire: with the Knight Belt with Sword Frog and a Heraldic Banner Bracer.
Shop the soldier's kit
A warm coat: plan for it
People who fight in full kit say the padded layer, not the metal, is what traps the heat. A padded coat is wonderful on a cold autumn day and hard work in summer. On hot days, wear only a light shirt underneath, open the collar between photos and take breaks in the shade.
Questions people ask
Is a gambeson armour?
Historically, yes: it was real protection and often the only armour a soldier had. Ours is a quilted coat in the gambeson style, made for the look and for comfort at faires.
Can I wear a gambeson-style coat to a summer faire?
You can, but it's warm. Morning and evening are easiest; at midday, take it off and carry it.
